How would I do that in SM code?
Or would it be easier to use components?
Thanks!
edit: Renamed Thread from "Selecting a value depending on absolute value?"
oddson ·
I think this works but the assembly people can easily trim some CPU usage off of this as there is a trick that, AFAIK, only works in ASM to get an absolute value in two ops verses the multiple ops that my rectify trick will cost.
There's also an issue of what to do when the absolute values are equal but the signs are different. I avoided the issue by allowing input 1 to win any equals comparison.
value = c1 + c2 + c3; // the winner of the last step will assign to value, the other two should be zero
// this is needed because you will run out of registers if you try this in one line.
alphanimal ·
Thanks oddson! You saved me a lot of headache 🙂
Your code gives the value of the greatest absolute. I wanted the one with the smallest, but that was easy to fix!
thax again and have a nice day!
alphanimal ·
Just for the record...
I'm trying to use a hard drive as some kind of turntable controller.
Hooking up the HDD motor to a stereo line audio input gives a pretty acurate signal of the current speed of the disk.
Watching that signal on a oscilloscope with X=left and Y=right shows a circle. I'm calculating the current angle of the disk with atan(y/x). Then I calculate the difference of the angle from the current sample to the previous one, to get the speed.
I needed this check (smallest absolute value) to compensate for the jumps like from 360° to 0°. e. g. if the current angle is 1° and the previous one was 259° that should give 2° and not -358°. But from 101° to 99° that should be -2° of course.
I'd still need a more accurate atan function. I currently use a rough approximisation formula.
stw ·
alphanimal wrote: Just for the record...
I'm trying to use a hard drive as some kind of turntable controller.
Hooking up the HDD motor to a stereo line audio input gives a pretty acurate signal of the current speed of the disk.
Watching that signal on a oscilloscope with X=left and Y=right shows a circle. I'm calculating the current angle of the disk with atan(y/x). Then I calculate the difference of the angle from the current sample to the previous one, to get the speed.
I needed this check (smallest absolute value) to compensate for the jumps like from 360° to 0°. e. g. if the current angle is 1° and the previous one was 259° that should give 2° and not -358°. But from 101° to 99° that should be -2° of course.
I'd still need a more accurate atan function. I currently use a rough approximisation formula.
you're kidding, aren't you...?
sunsynth ·
That is not a new idea 😉
I read somewhere that it works...
alphanimal ·
Yes id does work indeed...
http://www.slipperybrick.com/2008/11/a- ... turntable/
mine does also work, but I got some kind of vibrato effect, which comes from the inaccurate atan calculation I think
alphanimal ·
Does anyone have a SM code snippet to calulate an accurate atan?
I tried it with the infinite series function but that is only valid for values bewteen -1 and 1.
I don't care about performance I just need a reasonably accurate arctan function...
trogluddite ·
What;s the degree of accuracy of your x and y values? And how much accuracy does the output need? Just wondering if a lookup table might work (maybe followed by a bit of smoothing). Obviously (x/y) can go off to infinity, so you'd have to use a two dimensional table based on the indivdual x and y values. This still wouldn't be easy, but Taylor expansions are pretty much the norm for trig functions in SM as far as I can tell.
oddson ·
alphanimal wrote: Does anyone have a SM code snippet to calulate an accurate atan?
I tried it with the infinite series function but that is only valid for values bewteen -1 and 1.
I don't care about performance I just need a reasonably accurate arctan function...
I've been trying to wrap my head around what you're doing and whether and why arctangent is needed.
But for now I'll take it as given.
Where do you need the most accuracy. The difference between 100 and infinity is about 0.01 so is there a point in the upper range that you're OK with pi/2 being the approximate output?
I think some for a calc table stored as an array might work if Taylor series doesn't work for you... but then how to index so that the accuracy is where you need it most. And then there's the issue of whether interpolation is needed.
Here's a simple version with linear indexing and no interpolation:
But it's very inaccurate near zero which may be where you need the most accuracy.
If the indexing was non-linear you could get greater accuracy in the lower range but still support larger values. But you'd still need to decide at what level is pi/2 close enough.
alphanimal ·
Attached you find a sample of the raw audio data I get from the Hard drive.
It contains a speed up and letting it slow down until it stops. Also some scratching kind of movements.
The graphs show the l/r ratio (the tangens value which I want to convert to an angle) when rotating fast, very slow and when it comes to a complete stop. When there's no movement I get a very low level of noise (-87db) which results in the noisy l/r graph.
alphanimal ·
l/r value on stop
alphanimal ·
oddson wrote: I've been trying to wrap my head around what you're doing and whether and why arctangent is needed.
The motor gives 2 signals (L/R) which you can think of as X/Y coordinates moving in a circle.
I want to calculate the speed of the rotation by comparing the angle in one sample to the one in the next sample.
For calculating the angle I need arctan.
oddson wrote: Where do you need the most accuracy. The difference between 100 and infinity is about 0.01 so is there a point in the upper range that you're OK with pi/2 being the approximate output?
I'd say the more accuracy the better the result will be.
How could I build the Taylor series so I can try out how much accuracy I need?
trogluddite ·
I wonder whether asin and acos on x and y seperately would be more accurate (only -1 to +1 range needed) - comparing the two results ought to tell you which quadrant you're in. Also this might reduce the increasing influence of the noise component as y gets very small.
oddson ·
I'll get back to you on the atan() approximation issue.
But it's the apparent phase relationship between the two signals that I think is important.
Both appear to be sinusoidal but they don't appear to be 90 degrees out of phase.
I would guess (but didn't calculate) the signals are 60 degrees out of phase because of the pole alignment of the motor.
I'm thinking which signal's peak is first will tell you direction and the peak amplitude will give you a better speed result than trying to calculate from one position to the next.
Once you work out direction an envelope follower could give you an analogue for disk speed.
Jay ·
lol i love you mad scientists! 😀
I am wondering would there be any chance you could do a tutorial on setting up this type of thing alphanimal? it sounds fun!
i take it you need an old drive to cannibalize to do this?
I was thinking of getting a Wii controller and trying some stuff with that, I've seen them used in the Laptop Orchestra Vids on youtube
Best Regards
philter5 ·
😍 😍 😍 yeah, that sounds really interesting!
i´ve heard about that before, here are 2 small youtube video showing some stuff with
a hdd motor and 2 related thread
Realtime pitch shifting
Reading time-code from vinyl or CD
Jay ·
hi
nice one philter5! i found a tutorial here http://www.instructables.com/id/HDDJ_Turning_an_old_hard_disk_drive_into_a_rotary/
Best regards
alphanimal ·
oddson wrote: I'm thinking which signal's peak is first will tell you direction and the peak amplitude will give you a better speed result than trying to calculate from one position to the next.
Once you work out direction an envelope follower could give you an analogue for disk speed.
Thanks! Thats a nice idea! It would also make my noise problem obsolete 🙂
though at very low speeds the peak / level of the signal kind of bounces around.
But I can propably use l*l+r*r to calculate the "radius" of the circle and use that as a level for speed.
I'd just need a nice way to determine the direction. I could just use my current atan attempt for that.
trogluddite ·
Jay wrote: I was thinking of getting a Wii controller and trying some stuff with that
There's a video tutorial here that tells you what software etc. you need. Glad you reminded me, I've been meaning to try this myself to avoid that 'geek hunched over a desk' thing for live performance.
Happy Halloween!
Like this thread by the way, there are only so many ways to synthesise a sound, but still endless possibilities for novel ways to control those sounds (unless you can afford 4 grand for an eigenharp!)
alphanimal ·
WOW this is so freakin accurate!
Thanks for that idea oddson!
Really a lot better now.
I just used the slope of the raw l/r value for detemining the direction.
Got rid of the jumps from unlimited to -unlimited by ignoring the slope when it is greater than 3.
That way I got completely rid of the atan calculation and could make it a whole lot better by just using the level. How simple is that?
btw. The angle between the 2 channels is indeed less than 90°.
On the Osc (with x and y horizontal and vertical) it looks like a 45° tilted ellipsis.
edit: You can compensate for this using simple stereo separation
//store value for use as previous value in next cycle
px = x;
}
Was a long way to go compared to the amound of code produced 🙂
Without comments that would have been like 2 hours of work for every line...
alphanimal ·
Here's a video showing it in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30SG7JPlXho
Thanks again for all the help!
TomC ·
alphanimal wrote: Here's a video showing it in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30SG7JPlXho
Thanks again for all the help!
That's pretty cool, I like it.
Tom
philter5 ·
😍 😍 😍 😍
I LOVE IT!
Alphaanimal can you please post a tutorial or a link to a related website?
I MUST HAVE ONE,TOO!
alphanimal ·
I don't think I'll write a tutorial. Wiring it together isn't that hard: Disassemble a hard disk drive and connect a stereo audio cable to (the) three pins of the motor.
I tried it with 3 different hard drives and it worked the same on all.
If the signal is somehow different I think it won't be hard to adapt the code. (There's some stereo shaping involved to make it as circular as possible, minimizing jitter)
My current OSM is attached. (Made with FL Synthmaker, I don't know if this is compatible with the normal stand-alone SM version)
Here's the post on Image-Line Forums:
http://forum.image-line.com/viewtopic.php?t=48769
stw ·
This is so damn cool 😍
Thanks for the vid!
So the click of death which caused my network HD to die last month wasn't for nothing... 😉
philter5 ·
hey man that´s so great thanks a lot, 😍 😍 i allready have 2 old hdd opened, hope i get the rest 😕
philter5 ·
sorry but can somebody say me where theese three pins on the motor are ?
i can´t find them
philter5 ·
ok this are four and not three and it are contacts and not pins but is this right ? or is my hdd i use too old perhaps
and does not have theese three pins? it´s a western digital hdd with 20 GB 🙂 quite old
oddson ·
philter5 wrote: ... it´s a western digital hdd with 20 GB 🙂 quite old
LOL - 20GB is old! 😮
Now where's that 20MB HD got to...
philter5 ·
hehe okay oddson you´re right 20 GB isn´t that old.
but everything from the past is old... 😀
alphanimal ·
philter5 wrote: ok this are four and not three and it are contacts and not pins but is this right ? or is my hdd i use too old perhaps
and does not have theese three pins? it´s a western digital hdd with 20 GB 🙂 quite old
Some have 3, some have 4. I think it doesn't matter which audio wire goes to which motor wire.
I think it works like a 3-phase-motor, where some have their coils connected internally and some have this connection as a wire externally.
Either way, you always have one of the 3 coils between any 2 of the wires. And you only need 2 (because stereo has only 2 channels) so it doesn't really matter which wire goes where.
But be sure to get a stereo signal when you turn the platter.
alphanimal ·
The German Wikipedia Page has a good visualisation of this:
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drehstromm ... undprinzip
philter5 ·
thx for the link alphaanimal, but i didn´t get it 😕
Can you please please post/send me a short description of your worksteps???
Please!
alphanimal ·
If i get another old hard drive I'll make a documentation of how to disassemble it and how to connect the audio cable.
Basically you remove the PCB on the bottom, revealing the pins of the motor.
Some motors have 3 pins/wires, some have 4.
The audio cable has 3 wires (left, right, ground).
You have to attach the audio wires to any of the motor pins/wires.
The order does not matter. if the motor has 4, one of them stays unconnected.
You should then get a stereo signal on your audio input when you spin the motor.
How you connect the wires is up to you. If you have a soldering gun you can solder it.
I don't have one so I just wrapped them around and taped it down with some duct tape.
Here are 3 fotos of different motors I tried so far.
philter5 ·
yeeeeees it works this is so f****kin great 😍 😍 😍 😍
mwvdlee ·
I knew I had a reason for keeping on to all those old 2GB harddisks 🙂
I have some real (using the loose definition of the word) turntables, but this just sounds like fun.
All you need to do is remove PCB, wire up the motor to some audio jacks and write a bit of software, right?
sunsynth ·
recycling at it's best 😉
philter5 ·
mwvdlee wrote: I knew I had a reason for keeping on to all those old 2GB harddisks 🙂
I have some real (using the loose definition of the word) turntables, but this just sounds like fun.
All you need to do is remove PCB, wire up the motor to some audio jacks and write a bit of software, right?
yes. that´s right. but i have not written the software myself , i´ve used alpha animals OSM.
alphanimal ·
Congratulations philter5! 🙂
@mwvdlee: Yes that's basically it.
You also want to remove the top cover so that you can actually turn the disks.
And also the R/W arm so that they spin freely.
When you connect the motor be sure to get a stereo signal.
You don't have to write the software yourself. You can just use my SM module. I think it will work for any hard disk.
I also wrote a small VST plugin implementing the same analysis, that can load any wav file. But it doesn't work much better than the SM version.
I tried the calculation with the real atan() function. It is indeed more exact than the level approach, but again the problem comes at low speeds where you can't distinguish a signal from noise anymore. There the level method seems to work a little better.
If you want the VST (or source code in C# and VST.NET for Visual Studio 2010) just ask - then I will prepare it for the "public".
cheers
philter5 ·
here is a little modification of alphaanimals OSM. It converts the HDD Signal to MIDI CC Values
so that you can use your HDD Motor as Endless MIDI Knob/Rotary Knob
trogluddite ·
@philter
Like your little 'Link to Thread' box - that's a really neat way to add documentation to the modules.
philter5 ·
😀 thx
alphanimal ·
Cool! I like the endles rotary display! thx!
philter5 ·
ah, but the endless knob that i´ve put inside my OSM is not made by me.
Forgot to say that. if i remember right Acrobat was the one who made it or can somebody say me
who made it? 😉
Acrobat ·
philter5 wrote: ah, but the endless knob that i´ve put inside my OSM is not made by me.
Forgot to say that. if i remember right Acrobat was the one who made it or can somebody say me
who made it? 😉
yes, but also sunsynth worked a lot on that
nix ·
OK, i have to read this whole thread 🙂
oddson ·
nix wrote: OK, i have to read this whole thread 🙂
It was originally called "Selecting a value depending on absolute value?" and then it was about atan() estimation... then it was about motors and magnets... it's been a bumpy ride. 😉
philter5 ·
oddson wrote:
nix wrote: OK, i have to read this whole thread 🙂
It was originally called "Selecting a value depending on absolute value?" and then it was about atan() estimation... then it was about motors and magnets... it's been a bumpy ride. 😉
Yeeeeeeeeehaaaaaaa Whatta Ride! 😍
nix ·
Boo yah!
I'm up too.
So cool.
Very clever of yous to build the software too.
I'm thinking of hooking this up to it->
hmm, I up a shot and audio if I do 8D
Here's mine->
nix ·
OK hmm
I was hoping I could do it quite slowly and scratch a long time.
I have hooked up my disk motor to a belt drive.
It works quite well in that it sounds alright when you spin the disk fast, I have 9V going in to the little motor.
I have been playing with the speed setting and can get quite a good analog(?) of the original.
But when I slow to maybe 30rpm(1.5V) of the disk it sounds terrible.
I have been playing with the speed setting to no avail.
Am I banging my head against a wall here? Do you guys think it could work with the disk spinning slowly?
Thanks, it's kinda funky device
nix ·
hey again,
can we get the speed by counting 0 crossings?
also, it's closer to 60 rpm I am running at
nix ·
Here is my .osm->
Here is a screen->
What I want to do is read the number of the sample counter every time a 0 crossing is made. This number has to be held until the next 0 crossing. If I can do that I will have speed to feed a sampler.
So I have done it in green and the speed is displayed on the box marked speed, but it's so hopeless, i need to do it in blue.
I was wondering if any of you would like to solve this puzzle.
I have hooked up an LFO, so you don't need the turntable. It oscillates at similar speed.
There are 2 counters with speed control in the .osm if you think they would be handy 8D(thanks oddson,exo m8s).
So yeah, how to do what is green in blue?
Cheers this is fun, I have now my first little code
aspeedy ·
Ok, I stumbled upon all of this HDD turntable stuff, I really want to do it it but I can't find any help or tutorials, and nothing anyone has said is very detailed or explanatory. I have a old HDD, I took it apart and on the under side it has the three motor pins. I have a feeling the cable I'm using is not good, it's basically a headphone cable, it has a 4 wires, a red and ground, and on the other side, a white and a ground. A picture is below of the cable. I hook it up and plug it into the mic slot, and when I spin the motor I can hear a whirring noise through my speakers but if I put a headset on it's really crackly. I can't figure out synthmaker, I load up the osm file, but I don't know how to add a device, to the ASIO thing, the help files say nothing about it. So basically I need a tutorial, it doesn't need to much detail, but I need to know how to get this working.
nix ·
I'll help for sure man, I'll come back to you with all the details.
It works nearly perfect.
On mine the speed fluctuates by 3% at 33rpm, so it's nearly good enough to dj on.
Soon I'll come back here with some photos, schematics etc.
I am caught up in a gaming bent at the moment, but yeah, I'm sure we can get yours up.
It sounds like you are doing the right thing.
Yes it should make a sine that is higher pitched when it spins faster, so if it's doing that i'd say it's wired right.
I'll grab you the schematic I'm using in a sec.
Hmm, i'll see if I can tell you how to work it, but perhaps it's not too hard, just set the levels I guess.
Cheers, back in a tick
OK if anyone wants my schematic I can pm it to you. I would like to retain copyright, as perhaps I'll build these if I can get rid of that 3% fluctuation
That is the right lead to use aspeedy
nix ·
I cut the turntable out of an old LP player
MegaHurtz ·
Looking good nix 🙂 Think this project pushes the boundries of whats actually possible to do at home.
alphanimal ·
Cool method to use a real turntable to control software that emulates a turntable 😀
Kind of like timecoded vinyl without the vinyl.
Would you pass me that schematic? 3% seems pretty good... I can ger very accurate, too but didn't try to calculate the percentage yet 🙂
I don't know if I mentioned already, but I built the same thing as a VST plugin using my initial idea of calculating the angle directly with atan. It gives more precision in positioning. So is you turn the platter 3 rounds clockwise, and then 3 rounds counterclockwise you are pretty close to where you started off. On the other hand it gets very unprecise and jittery when you turn slowly.
Maybe it's possible to find a hybrid method.
alphanimal ·
For completeness, here is my latest OSM.
I have tried it with a few different HDDs and it worked pretty good on all of them.
With some newer 4-pin motors the wiring seems to be not arbitrary! leave one of the outer wires unconnected!
All these work very good!
philter5 ·
thx a lot man i´ll try it out 😉
nix ·
I tried it with the DC drive alpha, it works quite well, but like 10% flux compared to 3 % of the 0 crossings method. I wish you could play with my turntable, you might be able to refine it.
Thanks for this 8D
I am using your direction method yet.
ps. perhaps the delay you found with mine was the time it takes to cycle once, also you can stop low level input causing the position to move with the noise gate
pointer ·
Haven't seen any info on this yet - it's maybe a stupid question but what exactly do I have to do with .osm file? What I actually want is to use hard drive with Traktor Pro as midi device, is that even possible?
Jay ·
Pointer, First welcome to SM land 🙂
Do you have Synthmaker Installed? the .osm file is a workfile for Synthmaker which is a vst plugin development enviroment.Synthmaker can also export standalone applications.
You could try downloading Synthmaker free from here and build yourself a midi plugin or application for use with Traktor
SM FREE >> [old link]
I am sure there will be ppl who will guide you on your way 🙂
Hope this helps
Jay
SaintCree ·
This is an extremely dumb question, but I honestly do not know the answer.
For the stereo audio cable, I'm looking at an RCA-3.5mm one right? Plugging the 3.5mm into the line-in on my board and then cutting it somewhere down the cable to connect the R, L, and ground to the motor contacts? Will the ground be in the R/L's insulation?
I guess what I'm trying to ask is...
Will http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... e=Category work?
nix ·
Yes 🙂
That's right.
just twine the grounds together and solder it onto the drive pins man
If you want my schematic, pm me it is copyright
pointer ·
Jay wrote: Pointer, First welcome to SM land 🙂
Do you have Synthmaker Installed? the .osm file is a workfile for Synthmaker which is a vst plugin development enviroment.Synthmaker can also export standalone applications.
You could try downloading Synthmaker free from here and build yourself a midi plugin or application for use with Traktor
SM FREE >> [old link]
I am sure there will be ppl who will guide you on your way 🙂
Hope this helps
Jay
Thanks, I've tried installing it but I'm getting DirectSound could not be started error (it says that some other app is running ASIO, that's not true). Damn.
attic ·
NEVER PUT A HARD DRIVE IN YOUR MOUTH OR TRY TO SWALLOW IT!
I must have to much time on my hands. I started to worry about all my Synthmaker friends scratching their Dj sets out on potentially hazardous hard drive internals so I looked it up. Hardrive toxicity? http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic62574.html some definite lol moments in this thread. 😀
If you feel like taking this post seriously (Don't) there is this pdf on toxic stuff in computers. http://www.greenpeace.org/raw/content/international/press/reports/laptopreport2.pdf
alphanimal ·
You could try to eat it like a sandwich...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XjKnxOcaO0
zubin3333 ·
Hi,
Sorry to ask such a basic question. I have got all the hardware functioning but not the software side. I am using the free synth maker software and its not picking up my hardrive signal even though my computer picks it up through the input. I would really appreciate it if you could help me with the software. Thanks so much
nix ·
Here is my software, please don't share it without asking, thanks-
hmm
I don't know if it will work though.
Try the levels and gate first perhaps.
Cheers
Get back here if you like and we'll try and sort it.
nix ·
Hmm,
If you have selected the correct ASIO port on the 'ASIO in' primitive, and enabled your soundcard(the name will be highlighted in blue) you should get the signal.
You can test to see if you are getting a level with 'Level Meter' module.
philter5 ·
...here is a modified version i made. converts the audio signal from the HDD to a midi CC message.
it´s optimized for my modded HDD but with the "SENS" knob you can adjust the sensitivity to your needs.
infuzion ·
I was thinking about this thread last week; I found something that looks very similar:
http://www.undeadinst.com/products/timefrog
rozle ·
Hello
I've got a stupid Question. I have build now my own HDD Turntable, and by the way i have tested it with an Scope, and got the same Sinus wave what is recomended. My Question is now how can i Use this Turntable now in Fruity Loops? I have tested over 5 .osm files for Synthmaker, but nothing moves or is disturbing the sound when i move the HDD. I have tried it in my Onboard soundcard and the line in with a cinch and conntected it with the 4 connectors on the HDD motor, and for a second time i used the 2 channels from my USB Soundcard (EMU 0404)... Where is my problem? is it a configuration problem in the sound settings, or do i have to edit somthing in SynthMaker?
Sorry for my Bad Englsih ^^
My Setup:
1. Connecting the HDD with my Soundcard (Realtek Sound on Board)+(USB EMU 0404)
2. Open FruityLoops
3. Open the Synthmaker
4. Open one of the .osm files
5. Start playing (and i tried to open a mp3 in the "Sample Picker"
6. Moving the disk (nothing happened)
Sorry but iam a noob in SynthMaker and FruityLoops, but it will be nice if anyone can help me out... Thx
nix ·
Maybe try opening a .wav with the sample picker,
SM doesn't load MP3s.
hmm, it sounds like it is wired up properly.
I'll try in fruity myself
alphanimal ·
Do you get the dry HDD signal into FL?
Read this to learn about how to get FL ready for external inputs:
http://www.image-line.com/support/FLHel ... _audio.htm
here is the FLP I have been working with
https://rapidshare.com/files/4212022739 ... cher_3.rar
(which also contains a recording of my HDD signal in Edison to test with, hence the file size is too big for the forum)
you'll have to tweak it to your personal environment of course (configure your ASIO sound card driver, select the right input ...)
good luck!
cheers
rozle ·
Hey Guys! Thanks for the fast answer!!! I will test your solutions tomorrow, and post the results!
By the way, i have seen alphanimal uses the Terratec DMX6 sound interface, wich got Audio-In over Cinch. By my E-MU 0404 i only got two Mic/Instrument/Line channels, iam not sure but when iam right this doesnt matter? or iam wrong? , and the Onboard Realtek HD Audio Soundcard its not Kompatible(able) with the HDD Turntable?
I will see what i will get tomorrow, maybe i got a bug in the Audio Configuration @ ASIO or somethin else...
btw. someone of ya who speaks german?
good n8 and thx!!!
rozle ·
Yeah i have solved the problem, it was an Fruity Loops Audio Configuration setting problem made by my self. Thank you very much for ya help! Servus Rozle
nix ·
sweet, have fun!
I am trying to get 14 & 144 tooth gears 4 the turntable
philter5 ·
hey rozle welcome to the forum and have fun with your HDD controller 😉
and, yes, i speak german so if you like you can PM me and i hope i can help you 🙂
rozle ·
Thx @ all!
@ philter5, good to know it 😉
For next i want to pimp my wireing and figure out what can i do next with the controller! Special THX to Alphanimal and the other Coders like nix & Philter5!!! Very cool Synthmaker solutions you have made!
alphanimal ·
I speak German too (am from Lower Austria)
@nix how's your setup with the turntables? how do you plan to use those gears? can you post some pics?
cheers
Daniel
nix ·
It's alright,
the setup with the turntable.
It fluxes 3% or so when free,
and when u scratch, it's possible to
sort of throw the HDD servo.
So the little wheel slips. If I increase the pressure of the wheel,
it affects the flux amount badly.
I'll up a drawing of the gears one soon,
I'll just roughly chuck the rest of the parts in there.
So what I'm going to do is couple the DC motor directly to
the HDD motor, put the little gear on that coupling/shaft,
and mesh that to the 144 tooth gear which will be the turntable.
I'm looking forward to trying it,
it's difficult to find a supplier for these Martin gears,
is the problem now.
Cheers Daniel,
Nick 8D
alphanimal ·
this could be a nice application for a planet gear
nix ·
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epicyclic_gearing
a planetary gearbox, like?
hmm, yeah.
I guess I could use plastic instead of steel maybe,
but getting the dies cut would still be costly.
Also freeness is desired,
there would be resistance in that style of gearbox.
I have a little Tamiya one, have tried spinning it.
Thanks for the idea, it would be sooo cool looking.
np rozle, ur welcome.
The 0 crossing counter was originally by oddson, have modded it a little,
but would be improper to take the credit.
I'll have a quick google for little plantary gearboxes.
The higher the ratio the better.
I have 10:1, 20:1 would be better I reckon, nice to spin the hdd drive up.
edit-
http://www.anaheimautomation.com/produc ... t=t&cID=30
I found this, it's $320 for upt 100:1 so far
here's another 1-
http://www.micromo.com/precision-gearhe ... heets.aspx
alphanimal ·
I think the resistance is not that bad.
Mainly I thought about these because they look cool.
And you can save space because it's in one axis maybe
nix ·
It's a good idea,
coz 1:10 is really too small ratio I think.
We could build the case out of polycarbonate,
and display the steel gears!
hmm, I'm not sure that it really saves space though,
imagine you have the hdd motor at the bottom,
then DC motor, then gearbox, then plate-
stacked on top of each other,
it gets pretty deep, like 150mm or something.
It's a sweet device though,
coz it wouldn't work with a worm gearbox.
Cheers!
nix ·
If I want to make 2 decks,
it will be 000.
hmm
there are 4 gears and 1 more power supplies + postage