From the original SynthMaker forum (2004–2014), with its members’ names and dates.
Acrobat ·
After twelve (12!) long years of work my M-Audio Delta 1010LT is gone dead.
I mean I suppose, as the drivers don't find it anymore, in Windows as in Macintosh. At first the pre-amps started to get mad, when I was applying too pressure on the mike the audio, suddenly a harsh sound mixed up to the signal, like a bit reducing factor. This lasted for 3-4 month, then it definitely shut up.
Do you think it's really gone or can be recovered in some way? I bought it for 1.200.000 liras (600 euros) and now it costs almost the same (550 euros). This incidentally means it is a really nice product as the price never dropped in all these years... the sampling and output were very transparent, uncolored like any other product I heard . I really wish I have it back working!!!
If you have any idea about testers or such devices to find what went wrong, please tell me, 😍
saludos
A.
infuzion ·
Test the cables?
Acrobat ·
infuzion wrote: Test the cables?
I was thinking of testing the single chips on the board but I fear they cannot be substituted, cables I assume they are alright... mmmh I'm afraid I'm dreaming...
trogluddite ·
From what you describe - 'bit-reduced' sound, no driver detection, degradation happened in stages, 'pressure on the mic socket' - my guess would be that the board hardware is damaged; i.e. broken PCB track, solder connection that has worked loose, or just a chip that has died from too many 'heat up/cool down' cycles.
Looking at the design, I would only suspect the cables if you are clocking the sample rate externally via a digital input - a dodgy analogue cable would not explain what you have been hearing.
Replacing the chip(s) would very likely be impossible - there are some which are probably custom made for the card, or at least 'flashed' with custom firmware that M-Audio would not release publicly. Even then, most of the chips look to be surface mount, and with lots of pins, which makes them very difficult to remove and replace.
Sad, but that is how consumer electronics is these days - definitely not designed for easy repair.
Maybe it is some consolation - After 12 years, your card has cost you less than 1 Euro per week, so it has been very good value for money.
oddson ·
You should see if you can buy a replacement PCI card without the breakout box for less cash.
You should at least contact them to see if there are any options - but I would suspect chip-level repair isn't one of them.
http://www.m-audio.com/index.php?do=support.contact
{edit}ops - didn't notice you said 1010LT - that's the one without the breakout box right!
Still might be worth checking with them one the possibility of repair.{/edit}
Acrobat ·
oddson wrote: You should see if you can buy a replacement PCI card without the breakout box for less cash.
You should at least contact them to see if there are any options - but I would suspect chip-level repair isn't one of them.
http://www.m-audio.com/index.php?do=support.contact
{edit}ops - didn't notice you said 1010LT - that's the one without the breakout box right!
Still might be worth checking with them one the possibility of repair.{/edit}
yeah thanks it's the basic model, oddson, Ill just keep the cables as a replacement for my next new card, I guess I'll buy it again... 😉
infuzion ·
trogluddite wrote: ...my guess would be that the board hardware is damaged; i.e. broken PCB track, solder connection that has worked loose, or just a chip that has died from too many 'heat up/cool down' cycles.
Looking at the design, I would only suspect the cables if you are clocking the sample rate externally via a digital input - a dodgy analogue cable would not explain what you have been hearing.
When ever you are trouble shooting something, be a computer or car, you test the easiest things first, then swap out the cheapest parts/what ever you have available. I could & likely am wrong with "check the cable", but what an egg on the face it would be if buying a 00 card didn't fix the problem because it was the cable/breakout box! A cheap/borrowed potentiometer & 15 min could save alot of hassle. In fact, more time has been spent on this tread...
Acrobat ·
infuzion wrote: When ever you are trouble shooting something, be a computer or car, you test the easiest things first, then swap out the cheapest parts/what ever you have available. I could & likely am wrong with "check the cable", but what an egg on the face it would be if buying a 00 card didn't fix the problem because it was the cable/breakout box! A cheap/borrowed potentiometer & 15 min could save alot of hassle. In fact, more time has been spent on this tread...
I'll follow your advice, if I can find a cable tester and a friend that can do the test, never did any... 😊
In this case it's two big breakout cables, one for RCA in/out and to cannon amped ins, and another for S/PDIF, MIDI, WClock. The software drivers should find the card, anyway... and they don't..
infuzion ·
Acrobat wrote: The software drivers should find the card, anyway... and they don't..
Then the card or the motherboard is likely the problem.
Tried reseating the card? Put it in a new slot? Used a pencil eraser on the card contacts? Tried the card in a different computer? Put another card that you know it works into the same slot? Used contact cleaner on both the card's contacts & slot?
Acrobat ·
infuzion wrote:
Acrobat wrote: The software drivers should find the card, anyway... and they don't..
Then the card or the motherboard is likely the problem.
Tried reseating the card? Put it in a new slot? Used a pencil eraser on the card contacts? Tried the card in a different computer? Put another card that you know it works into the same slot? Used contact cleaner on both the card's contacts & slot?
reseating in the same slot YES
new slot NO in my main PC, in a Mac G4 slot was not recognised.
should try cleaning and then put it in a different slot
theun ·
The Delta 1010LT manual on warranty (last page):
Limited Lifetime Warranty
(...) warrants that this product is free of defects in materials and workmanship
under normal use so long as the product is: owned by the original purchaser(...)
So 'complain' first, there is at least a chance M-Audio will supply a replacement board.
Wishing you succes, Theun
infuzion ·
theun wrote: The Delta 1010LT manual on warranty (last page):
Limited Lifetime Warranty
(...) warrants that this product is free of defects in materials and workmanship
under normal use so long as the product is: owned by the original purchaser(...)
So 'complain' first, there is at least a chance M-Audio will supply a replacement board.
Great point! But likely the 1st thing they will do is make him troubleshoot, so if he contacts them saying "I've done this & this & that & that..." then he'll have more leverage.
theun ·
I fully agree, I 'd do exactly the same ... (it's also what I did 2 weeks ago when my 6 weeks old motherboard died).
Actually, I was checking the Delta etc 's documentation to find out if there's a hidden on board battery when I found the warranty clause. I became so exited about the warranty clause, that I forgot to look further into any technicalities ...
Acrobat ·
theun wrote: The Delta 1010LT manual on warranty (last page):
Limited Lifetime Warranty
(...) warrants that this product is free of defects in materials and workmanship
under normal use so long as the product is: owned by the original purchaser(...)
So 'complain' first, there is at least a chance M-Audio will supply a replacement board.
Wishing you succes, Theun
you really mean it's a lifetime warranty? That's good news I can't believe it...
attic ·
I hope you get it running again. If the other solutions fail and you resort to shopping you could try Search Tempest. It search's all of Craigslist at once. Here is the search for your card but you might want to change the zip code.
http://www.searchtempest.com/results.php?location=99021&maxDist=250®ion_us=1&search_string=M-Audio+Delta+1010LT&keytype=adv&Region=na&cityselect=zip&page=0&showeb=1&category=8&subcat=grd&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max
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